MARINE CORPS HISTORICAL LIBRARY MlAIRINE CORPS HISTORICAL LIBRARY ftHWfiM'n^ _MYTHS, MARTYRS AND MARINES OF MOKAPU A History of the Marine' Corps Air Station, Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Written by Staff Sergeant Al Steele, USMC »«» Edited by 1st Lieutenant C. A. P. McNease, USMC Informational Services Officer Commanding Officer Colonel Paul T. Johnston, USMC First Edition January 1, 1965 Feb J fr5 5?» jftONMESftUliftft* MARINE CORPS HISTORICAL DEC 2 8 1966 ARCHIVES & LIBRARY "Marine helicopters buzzed overhead, church bells rang, and little children raced barefoot along country (1) roads shouting "Statehood; Statehood! It's cornel" Thus when Hawaii became the 50th of the United States on August 21, 1959, the activities of Marines were once again recorded in Hawaiian history. The Marine helicopters — the Birds of Mokapu — are but a page in a history that began eons ago — the history of Mokapu Peninsula. 1. Millions of years ago, a gigantic fissure appeared in the Pacific Ocean floor. At the same time the ocean floor began shifting levels intermittenly. Time and again islands appeared and disappeared with each heaving breath of the newly forming volcanic rift. In this manner a string of hundreds of islands stretching from Midway to Hawaii, the largest and south- ernmost of a chain know as the Hawaiian Islands, was formed. During this "First we're here, now we're not" forming stage, the island of Oahu upon which Mokapu Peninsula is located, appeared. Mokapu received its basic formation when volcanic eruptions of the southeast end of the Koolau mountain range produced many lava flows and much falling rock. These same eruptions produced secondary tuff cones now known as Diamond Head, Koko Head and Punchbowl. A cone off the North Beach of the peninsula and most of "Bird Rock Cone" slipped under the ocean during one (2) of the later recessions of the hardening volcanic crust. Of the four volcanic cinder cones that appeared from time to time on the peninsula, only Ulupau Head, the semi-crater on the northeast corner of Mokapu, andw (a) Puu Hawaii-loa, remain today. } (a) Now known as Kansas Tower 2* Along the shore, the peninsula was enlarged through the ages by limestone formations, sand and algae pebbles. Oceanography studies indicate that at one time, the ocean shoreline was about 12 feet above its present level. The land width at the point where the peninsula joins the main part of Oahu is more than one mile wide. This portion of the peninsula includes an area known as Nuupia fishponds . Today Mokapu can be roughly divided into two land portions. The western portion is marked by Hawaii-loa Cone, the coral bluffs of Pali Kilo and Pyramid Rock. The right potion's only distinct feature is Ulupau Crater. Hawaiians of ancient days employed a most complex system of land division. Undoubtedly, Mokapu, in part or in total, changed hands countless time in the days when deed consisted only of the spoken word of one in power. Basically the system used can be explained as follow: (a) It was the custom that on the death of the Moi and the accession of a new one, the new ruler would re-divide the lands of his domain among his favorite chiefs and relatives. This subdivision was generally made in a grand council of chiefs and those who were dissatisfied had either to accept their lot or take their chance on (3) a revolt if they thought it feasible. (a) King 3. (a) The ahupuaa was the basic land unit of the larger estate of the chiefs. Its area followed no predetermined or regular land measure. Each ahupuaa varied in size and shape and it is doubtful that any two were iafdentical. Usually the ahupuaas followed terrain features or imaginary (3) "fence" lines between two points. Although no two were exactly alike, they did posses basic similarities. The typical form was a strip running from the mountains to the sea, marked by physical boundaries of streams or gulches, and containing a sea fishery, a (b) stretch of land suitable for agriculture and an extent of forest land. Each division was expected to — and could — rely on its own peoples' resourcefulness to sustain its economy and food demands, Mokapu Peninsula was divided into three ahupuaas, known as Kailua, Kaneohe and Heeia. (c) The ahupuaas were subdivided by the Kononhiki into smaller areas know as "ilis." The three ahupuaas of Mokapu Peninsula contained six such sub-divisions. The western lobe of the peninsula was called Mokapu and was located in the Heeia ahupuaa. The eastern ahupuaa of Kaneohe contained the ilis of Heleloa, Kuwaaohe, Ulupau, Halekou-Kaluapuhi and Nuupia. (a) Land District (b) Mainly taro and yams (c) Chief steward of the district A small jut of land near the present main gate was (a) in the Kailua ahupuaa. The area of Mokapu Peninsula that lay within the Heeia district is now the Pyramid Rock area and the area covered by the runway and aprons of the Marine Corps Air Station. Along the eastern shore of the peninsula were the ilis of Kuaaohe and Ulupau. The land mass cutting through the center of the peninsula between Mokapu ili and Kuwaaohe ili included the northern ili of Heleloa, marked by Puu (b) Hawaii-loa, and the southern ili of Halekou-Kaluapuhi. Nuupia, however, was considered to be a separate piece of property and did not automatically belong to, nor was assigned with, the adjacent land. Parts of the fishponds were assigned individually like the ili. In early days the major sector of Mokapu Peninsula was reserved for the high chiefs and kings. The peninsula was once termed a barren, desolate waste- land. However, this was not so in the sixteenth century* King Peleiholani built his royal palace near the Nuupia fishponds. During his reign there was much mirth and gay court pageantry. (a) Possibly the salt evaporation pits (b) Halekou-Kaluapuhi is bounded by 3rd st.; Mokapu Blvd. and the Nuupia fishponds 5. In the following century, Kamehameha the Great (The Lonely One) selected the site for use as a royal meeting (a) place with his aliis . It became the sacred land of Kam- ehameha from whence the peninsula got its name. The name was originally Moku-Kapu, and is derived from two Hawaiian words. Moku is a small island or pen- insula; Kapu means sacred or keep out. In reality, "Keep out because what lies here is sacred," From many bones unearthed and from the ruins of a Hawaiian village and temple area found, there is substantial (4) proof the Mokapu was once heavily populated. Wherever Hawaiian royalty dwelled, there naturally was a concentration of servants, lesser chiefs and in general, the "followers". The temple area of Mokapu stood inland from Pali Kilo, the coral cliffs south of Pyramid Rock. In 1917, Vaughn MacCaughey, then Professor of Biology at the College of Hawaii, paid an extensive visit to Mokapu to explore the temple ruins. Some of his observations included: "On the flat summit of this elevated part of the coast, several hundred yards inland, I found a maze of old ruins, (b) Among the ruins are traces of a native heiau. It is of the husbandry class, and I believe Hina and Ku are its (c) deities. (a) Chiefs (b) Temple (c) A husbandry class heiau was one where only livestock were sacrified to the gods. In this heiau, it was probaby Hina and Ku. 6. Kamehameha the Great and the aliis used tine temple exclusively. There were also two lesser temples on the Pali Kilo bluffs. A small heiau was built for servant class worshippers to pray to the gods for the replenish- ment of the sea with fish. A larger one constructed by them was devoted to gardeners who prayed for more taro and potatoes and other food products. The entire area was devoted to use as a place of worship (a) with the exception of a lookout tower which let a sentry scan the off-shore waters for fish as well as intruders." In these same heiaus some of the greatest of Hawaiian royalty presided during their reign. In the sixteenth century Peleilolani, King of Oahu, met with his grand council at Mokapu. Later, Kamehameha the Great assembled his leaders for talks, advice, or in some cases, relaxation in the Sacred Land. For relaxation, the royalty fell back on one of the oldest of Hawaiian sports and, for that matter, livelihoods — fishing* (b) The sea and bays around Mokapu were kapu in those days. The right to fish in the surrounding waters was granted only to the high chiefs and servants of the kingw (a) Pyramid Rock (b) Out-of -Bounds 7. The fishing grounds were called ko'a. Fishing was at that time as much regulated as it is today with license restrictions, limits and seasons. Fishing was confined to certain types of fish native to certain sections of the surrounding waters. Feeders were assigned to areas with the job of baiting the fish two or three timesa week. Seaweed would be dumped in the deep holes, thereby luring the fish to stay in one (3) place and available for the taking. When the King was to entertain lesser royalty, or if he himself desired to fish, feeders would carry specially pre- pared baits to the fishing holes. The food was composed of seaweed mixed with crushed kukui nuts. The effect was that of a laxative. A few days previous to the fishing party, the fish were given this mixture with the hope that they would be extremely hungry at the appointed time. Otftvtlme-** a finger placed in the water was the only in- (4) vitation needed to have it bitten. The Hawaiians pursued fishing religiously and it was, almost, their religion. They had many strange beliefs and customs, and as today, their band formed an almost distinct • (a) community. They worshipped in small ku-ulas, like many at the base of Pyramid Rock. These ku-ulas were countless. Almost every rock jutting into the ocean was a shrine of sorts (a) Shrines 8. Kuula, the chief fish god, was a rude pile of coral or volcanic stones erected by the fishermen. The fish god was nothing more than an ordinary black lava block placed upright upon a crude platform, The fishermen prayed to Kuula for their fishing prowes It was the custom that the first fish caught, no matter its size, bo offered to Kuula. There were two such stones gods which stood on a fishing shr-ifte near Pyramid Rock. They were, as legend tells it, the gods Kane and Kanaloa. The story is that: "Keawanui and Keawaiki were two Hawaiians living at Mokapu. One day they were visited by two men, strangers who came from across the bay, one of whom was lighter in color than the other. While they were the guests of Keawanui and Keawaiki these two men built a small fishpond known as Paohua • On the beach above Paohua was a large rock with a shallow depression in which the fish were placed after being caught. It is said they could not flop out of the bowl. After being hospitably entertained by Keawanui and Keawaiki, the strangers took their leave, and as the two watched their guests leave, they saw them walk out over the water into the distance. This was their first indication that they had been (5) entertaining the gods, Kane and Kanaloa." Anthropologists from all parts of the United States converged on Mokapu to study the new findings. Dr. Charles E. Snow, physical anthropologist of the University of Kentucky, spent nearly a year at Mokapu conducting extensive (6) studies of the burial grounds. Dr. Snow challenged many theories about the Hawaaiian peole. The world's ideas and concepts then were that the people were a shiftless, carefree lot. Doctor Snow contra- dieted these notions with facts which he found in the graves • He concluded that the Hawaiian lived a rugged life filled with vigorous activity. From the bones unearthed in the sand dunes, he deter- mined that certain worn parts meant certain physical labors. Muscles strengthened by taro planting, tapa beating and canoe paddling left a tell-tale mark on bones of the arms. Both the men and women were proclaimed expert hula dancers by Dr. Snow. Extensive wear on the hip joints and pelvic regions proved this point, he said. The discovery of the bones led to a great deal of speculation concerning their origin. 10, Doctor Snow, then working with the Bishop Museum's Department of Ethnology, thought the bones to be buried more than 200 years ago. He based this time on the fact that no foreign objects, beads or c_ naments were found buried with the bodies. This indicated to him that they had died before the coming of the white man to th3 islands. The average Hawaiian was considered a senior citizen in his forties. Most of the skeletons proved the average person to be about 30 years of age. In addition, there were more skeletons of women and children than those of men. This can be accounted for by the fact that many men of the community were killed while off on a war party or died at sea while fishing. Burials were accomplished in many ways. Some bodies were buried in the flex position, other were horizontal, sideways or even upright. It was ascertained that, like the American Indian, Hawaiian bound the skulls of newborn and young children. The foreheads were lower, and the back of the heads flat- tened to form a high crown. 11. Although the island people were relatively free of communicable diseases common to other parts of the world, they did suffer extensively from one malady .,., arthritis which affected more than 70 percent of the adults in their lower back and pelvic regions. Dr. Snow attributes this to the life of bending in taro patches and leisure hours of hula dancing. Female skeletons bore a high percentage of broken noses. Dr. Snow .concluded that this may have been the consequence of domestic difficulties. Other versions of the Mokapu graveyards differ. In one (7) account, a writer contends that the bones were those of Hawaiian warriors killed in battle. When Kamehameha invaded Oahu in 1795, a high chief named Kiana defected to the Oahu forces under King Kalanikupule . Kiana and his army landed at Kaneohe Bay,cross-in.g the Pali from the Windward side. According to another version, the bones found in the sand dunes at Heleloa Beach could have been a rriding party (7) from Molokai that was ambushed and annihilated. This raiding party, using sneak tactics, could have moved in (a) during Kona weather passing undetected by the sentry probably stationed atop Pyramid Rock. (a) Weather during which winds blow from the mountains, as opposed to normal trade winds from the sea. 12. Many broken bones, both in male and female skeletons, and battered canoes substantiate this account. Women in battle were common sights in the Hawaiian armies* Wives often were at their nusbands1 sides during a battle; however, more often they would be used for carry- ing supplies or helping the wounded men. It was considered an honor for them to die with their husbands and for their king. War parties from other islands did not account for all the battles, however. Small battles raged on the Windward side between the chiefs of ilis . Fishing in unauthorized areas of Nuupia Pond or Kaneohe Bay was cause for war. his could have also been the case on Heleloa Beach. A neighbQring. chieftan may have ventured too far into an- other^ private fishing grounds. ' (a) According to an old Hawaiian legend, Keone Kahakaka-Ka, T transpired on the beach at Heleloa. hree Hawaiian gods, Kane, Ku and Lono^created man by craving his image in the sands and brought him to life. Kane is said to have creat- ed the head, Lono the heart, and Ku the body, or at least (55 the legs. (a) Sketch or drawing, in this case it concerns the creation of man. 13. ^he ili of Ulupau, the most eastern of Mokapu Peninsula, is the prominent terrain feature on the Peninsula. Ulupau Head, now an extinct volcanic crater, rises from an uplifted coral shield on tho extreme shore line. It is a broad saucer-shaped vent, very similar in ap- pearance to Diamond Head Crater on the southern tip of Oahu. All of the East face has been cut away and only a curving under-water line indicate where the missing segment of the crater stood. ^be largest diameter of the rim is a- bout 3&00 feet. Its highest elevation is about 683 feet. Geologist claim that Ulupau was probably one of the first features to rise above the surf during the island's formation. They speculate that it was created in a matter (8) of hours. Ulupau' s northern slopes have been cut to sheer cliffs nearly 500 feet high. It is claimed to be the steepest cliff found anywhere on the coast of 0ahu. Ancient Haw- (a) aiians called it Kahekili's Leap, (a) The only Kahekili in Hawaiian lore appears as King of Lanai, Molokai and Maui. 14. Kahekili, meaning "God of Thunder", had one side of his body tattooed black, while the other side was its natural color. This was his identification and made him (9) conspicuous in battle. Kahekili undermined the power of Kahahana, King of Oahu, and won his kingdom in a boody battle fought over the Pali in Nuuanu Valley. Kahekili died in July, 1794* at Waikiki. Kalanikupule, his son, then came into power, and set the stage for the now legendary battle at Nuuanu Pali with Kanehameha the Great. Kamehameha defeated Kalanikupule' s army by forcing the troops over the Pali cliffs. The first military application of Mokapu Peninsula may have been as a post for spies of Kahekili. There is no known reason for the name Kahekili fs Leap; only scanty reports are made in history books or legend of Hawaiian lore. '(7) One account claims, "Kahekili was a crafty and shrewd monarch. He sent spies from Maui or Molokai to Oahu. They set up their reporting post on Ulupau Head. After gaining information on the Army of Oahu, the spies would use the cliff area there as a signal post to Molokai. 15. •''hey would light gigantic fires and torches and, using a system of fire signals, relay their messages to Molokai lookouts* Their activities would go unobserved high atop Ulupau behind the crater's rim. Few persons inhabited the ili of Ulupau. In the early part of this century. A few bones were discovered near the rim of the crater. The only significant point of their mention is that some of them were said to be almost eight feet long. The ir origin has not been explained, and no (4) records remain as to their disposition. In legends concerning Ulupau Head, it is said that Pele, the Hawaiian Goddess of fire and volcanos, chose Ulupau for her Oahu home while wandering about the islands. Ulupau means "fumes going up;" more specifically, the actual eruption and fumes that followed. It formerly was called Kuwaaohe which, when translated, means "stand and wait". That meaning may apply to sentries that stood watch for invaders from the outer islands. The last ili worthy of note — remembering that it was considered a separate piece of property — is Nuupia. Nuupia fishponds stand today much as they did in bygone eras. At the turn of the century, the area was nearly 300 acres in size. This is slowly dwindling, as man continuously pushes the shoreline outward. 16. Then there were three separate, distinct ponds in the Nuupia area. hey were Halekou and Nuupia on the west of the road leading into the peninsula and Kaluapuki on the east of the road. At one time, Nuupia fishpond was •om.pletely surrounde"d by groves of starch trees, from which it derived its name. These trees were actually large bushes that grew potato-like bulbs about the size of a watermelon. The juice from this plant was used for starch and as a stimulant for the breast (5) of new mothers . Another pond in this area has been lost in history. (5) It is believed to have been called Muliwaiolena. This is the name of a stream near which the commander of (a) the Oahu troops was shot by Kaeo's foreign gunner when Kaeo was not allowed to land on the Wirfward side. The (b) gunner was a haole sailor off a ship visiting Hawaii at that time. The armies of Hawaii were in that period supplemented with seamen who jumped ship or were ordered off their ships for misconduct. These fishponds are among the last visible signs of a bygone era of Hawaiian lore. Near the present-day entrance to the Air Station are the native salt works. Called "pans" by the Hawaiians, these were nothing more than depressions in the coral rocks near the shore that were used to obtain salt by evaporation. (a) King of Kauai (b) White man, stranger 17. Times were changing for Hawaii in the middle part of the nineteenth century. The influx of foreigners was making its mark on the economic, cultures and customs of the islanders. Royalty departed Mokapu for the fast-building Leeward side of the island. Waikiki was the status residential area for the monarch. The land on Mokapu became barren and desolate, and the proud vestiges of this royal playground withered and disappear- ed. As royalty moved out, commoners move in, for in 18/+8 the common people of Hawaii were given a right known previously only to Hawaiian royalty — the right of title to land. Their title was for the full and unrestricted use and control of their holdings. (a) Before the Great Mahele, the land belonged only to the king and, therefore, title to it depended soley upon his whims. Those in the king favor could transfer land given to them by the king. But, if royalty dictated, the land returned to the royal holdings. The great influx of foreigners in the early 1800*3 did much to bring about the execution of the Great Mahele. Farmers and Tradesmen came to Mokapu. Over the flat- lands where pheasant^ hunts once took place, cattle now grazed. (a) Land Reformation. The king gave written title to the commoners. 18. ifflftiH wtmwmmm wa»«ga*wi&^tf^ Farming was carried out on a SuIeQ.1 scale. Many small landowners endeavored to raise common plants such as taro and yams.. Some ventured into what appeared to be a lucrative bus- iness venture — cotton. But before the first season was over, the cotton was devastated by the boll weevil. The agrarian venture ended. At the time of the Great Mahele, the districts of Kailua and Kaneohe were presented to Queen Kalama, consort (10) of Kamehameha III. Heeia was assigned to a royal high chief known as (11) (a) Abner Paki, Mokapu ili gave High Chief Paki fishing rights in the waters of Kaneohe Bay. Upon the death of Paki in 1856, the land reverted to Kamehameha III and was then sold at public auction to William and John Summer for the sum of $870. Later, William Summer sold his share to his brother John. Land titles changed swiftly in the hands of eager business speculators. A Bruce Cartwright held the title to the Mokapu Peninsula for a time under a trust deed from John Summer, for John Wyllie Davis. Davis, excited (b) about his new land acquisition, built one of the first homes on Mokapu. (a) The area west of a line between runway four and Hilltop Houslja^g. aj~ea. (b) The Davis house stood until the mid-thirties about where the present G-CA is located. 19. After the turn of the century, beach resort houses began to spring up on Mokapu. The residents of Honolulu found it fashionable to have a "country place" at Mokapu. They constructed their beach homes near the Davis residence in the Heeia section. The Castles favored Heleloa. Straub pigj^ferred the coastal breezes and bird-shooting spots of Ft. Hase and Nuupia Pond. Harold Castle built a great home near North Beach. Doctor Georgo Straub owned a small plot of ground near Fort Hase where he built his summer home — a house built of shipping containers placed on stilts — a fashionable home in those days. It could well be called the first "ranch-style" home on the island. Whenever the doctor wanted to add a room, he simply acquired another crate, nailed it to an existing "room", cut a hole for a door and a new room was there. He eventually added a second floor in the same manner. Thus life in the thirties was a pleasant experience for the Mokapu dwellers; a far cry from the soup-lines steadily growing longer on the Mainland. Mokapu Peninsula was, in 1939, again a playground for Hawaiians, and for the foreigners who had come and made their mark on the island scene. This was the Mokapu atmosphere Navy planners found when, in 1939, they began eyeing the peninsula as a posi- S"ible advance naval base. 20. THE ARMY AT MOKAPTJ As previously noted, Mokapu had been a battleground, in the days of clubs and spears of the ancient Hawaiians. Now it was decided the land could best serve as an advance naval base. It was not, however, the first time Mokapu had been pressed into the United States defense system. Fort Hase was established during World War I. It was one of the oldest bases on Oahu, having been commissioned in 1918 as the Kuwaaohe Military Reservation, which comprised about 322 acres. President Vtfoodrow Wilson signed executive, order 2900 on July 2, 1918 j which transferred Camp Kuwaaohe to the Army. With World War II approaching, Port Hase was re-established, Early in 1942 cannoneers began arriving to set up coastal defenses on the Windward of Oahu. When commissioned in 1941 it was known as Camp Ulupau, but was redesignated Fort Hase in February 1942, It remained as Fort Hase throughout the war. Named in honor of Major General William T. Hase, the post also served as headquarters for the harbor defense of Kaneohe Bay. The largest weapons brought to Ft. Haso during World War II were 14-inch guns from the battleship Pennsylvania These were emplaced In a position known as Penn Battery. In addition, French Battery stood between the Hilltop area and North Beach. 21. Pennsylvania Battery was, in itself, a mighty fortress It had. been dug out of the side of Ulupau on the end of Kahehili » s Leap. The emplacement was 210 feet in width with gun emplacements on each end. The tunnel went back into the side of Ulupau more than 100 feet. It contained reinforced concrete rooms for radar, powder storage, shell rooms, and quarters for sleeping and messing. These quarters were always available, but seldom used. The troops manning the positions were quartered in a tent city at the base of Ulupau. French Battery originally v/as designed to hold six- inch guns. However, eight-inch guns were later installed on permanent mounts. The inside walls of French Battery measured 20 feet in height, while the overall height of the emplacement was about 82 feet. Between the sand dunes of Heleloa and the western base of Ulupau, were a number of three inch guns manned by Army cannoneers. Along the North Beach area from Pyramid Rock to Ulupau, were 50 calibre machineguns. The first commanding officer assigned to Ft. Haso in the early 1940 's was a General Earrcn, who soon became friends with the Straub family, oft-time residents of Ft. (12) Hase Beach. When General Harren remarked that the Straub Home would make a fine officers club, Dr. Straub willingly gave his resort holdings to the Army and moved to Waikiki. He, too, could feel the tension in the air as the military prepared the peninsula for war. 22. Pop almost two years Dr. Straub and other Mokapu dwellers had watched the carthmoving machines churning about in the Hccia section of the peninsula. The off-shore dredges worked around the clock sucking up mud and coral from the bottom of Kane oho Bay. More and more land was needed and was being added to the fast developing war base. Prior to and during World War II, the Ft. Hasc detachment grew from its humble beginning as a defense battalion to the gigantic major unit of the Windward Coastal Artillery Command. With Its growing pains taxing the (a) facilities, the Army acquired an additional 474 acres of land from Harold Castle. By the end of the war, thousands of troops were stationed at Ft. Hasc, or had received the training given there . In late 1945, the 98th Army Division departed Ft. Hasc bound for occupation duty in Japan. They had just completed their training in preparation for the invasion of Japan, which never occurred. On April 1, 1947, Fort Hasc, which had onccd based elements of three divisions, became a skeleton outpost of the Army *s Ft. Rugcr, (a) The present Capchart Housing area. 23. A NAVAL AIR STATION IS BORN Mokapu Peninsula pleased Navy planners. Intelligence specialists liked the isolated location. With only one road to the surrounding countryside, security would be easier. The airfield planners and engineers particularly liked the flat plain of Heeia. The main direction of flight over unpopulated areas would be into the wind. Word was flashed to Navy Department headquarters to acquire the needed Mokapu Peninsula land. As Harold Kainalu Long Castle looked over his Mokapu empire, little did he know that some day the government would require every inch of it... and then some. On August 5, 1939, the Navy Department inked Contract NOy-3550, marking the beginning of Contractors, Pacific Naval Air Bases. This contract, which started the work here at Kaneohe, also gave birth to other naval installations (13) at Palmyra, Johnson, Midway, Alaska, and other Oahu locations. Kaneohe Air Station began its life with an appropiation amounting to $5,820,000. The 464 acres comprising the Heeia section were taken from the Mokapu Land Company "and others" in transactions which the Mokapu ili was acquired on Sept. 8, 1939. 24. In all, the U. 3. Government paid a total of ^1,097,736.04 for nearly 500 acres. Mot content with its newly acouirrd land, and also desiring to improve its holdings, the Navy began "creating" additional acreage. On Sept. 5, 1939, workers began building a dike pre- paratory uo filling with material dredged from the Kaneohe 3ay. L~ter in the month « Sept. 27 — an inconspicuous drrd-^e arrivod and anchored in Kaneohe Bay. That day the "B. F. Dillingham" began dicing into the waters of the bay, disgorging mud and coral rock onto the soon-to-change shoreline. Work had begun earnest. Dredging an'-5 fr'.lling continued on the new Naval ftasr until 1)43. By then workers had added 280 acres to the original land acquisitions which totaled 2265 acres. One of the most prominent addition to the .iir Station -- made from the bottom of Kaneohe Bay — extends from ar, electric sub-station near hanger 105 almost to sixth street, back across the Station transportation compound and continues East along a lin^ extending to the rubbish carp. In all, 19'v acres were added to the confines of the Station in this area, "/est of the runway a dike was built and l62 acres were added to the ancient 'leeia section. 25. The eastern boundaries of the Air Station in 1939 (and through the forties), stood next to Fort Hase. They extended southwest on old Lawrence Road to Mokapu Road, then southeast (a) to include the area held by the fish and game farm. The Main Gate to the Naval Air Station was at the intersection of "GM Street and. Mokapu Road where the taxi stand is nov; located. Access to Fort Hase was gained through a gate located about one-half mile east of the (b) former main gate. In August 1940, the Navy decided to expand its new Naval reservation by acquiring all Fokapu Peninsula, Halelou-Kaluapuhi was included in land given to ^ueen Kalama as described previously in the Heleloa and Ulupau sections. Executive Order 112 earmarked the area for the Territorial Fish and Same Commission. This was cancelled by Executive Order 97^ which made th«* land property of the ?Tavy Department on March 3, 1942, (a) Brigade Special Services now occupies the former bird farm office and worker Ts quarters (Building #930) (b) At the center of the big curve on Mokapu Road. 26. The Territorial Fish and Same Commission lands were located in the Halekou-Kaluapuhi ili. It had been established in 1921 as the first government-sponsored Fish and Game farm in the Hawaiian Islands. On describing the 345 acre tract, a newspaper account reads: "an arid waste, barren, silent, almost desolate, facing the open ocean and located on Mokapu Peninsula. It will someday become a wooden paradise and bird refuge." The purpose of the game farm was to produce and establish game birds throughout the territory. Practically all of the birds kept at the farm were imported. The farm was stocked with green-winged doves and r^d- chested wood partridges of the East Indies was well as other fowl. They were introduced (a) to propagate the species in the Hawaiian Islnnds. ' The Navy had. the unusual role of "landlord" of the peninsula in the early forties to about 250 landholders in the Heeia section. Before work could actually begin on the airfield runways and aprons, the tenants — including the Darvisea- had to be relocated. (a) One may see ring-necked pheasants occasionally early in the morning along road in thp Ft. Hase-Nuupia Fish Pond area. 27. The "rental" system lasted for about three months, giving the residents time to acquire other acreage to which they would move their belongings. Homeowners paid monthly rental fee to the Navy for living within the new Air Station boundaries. The last land acquisition during the forties was the Nuupia Fishpond area. This land, orginally the property of Queen Kalama, and held temporarily on a ten-year lease by Piikoi, high chief under Kamehameha III, was sol^ to the United States on June 13, 1%3 for $90,000. It included additional acreage adjoining the fish pond area. The land ■• was t^.ken by condemnation from Mr. Harold Castle, Sr. Now that th^ Navy hid acquired the land, workers began arriving by the hundreds to complete the advance Naval Base that was at that time to be only a small seaplane base. In a matter of months, supply warehouses sprung up, communication facilities rose and the largest structures, the seaplane hangars made their appearance. Actually, some of the first structures to dot the K^neohe skyline wpre the new quonset huts built to house civilian workers. 28. Work progressed on the Station in an orderly manner. At first, contractors furnished their own security personnel on the ,iob but by November 1940, the Navy had taken over control of security forces on the yet unfinished air base — and the first U. S. Marines arrived at K-Bay. Early in November 1940, Platoon Sergeant George Spence came aboard with thirty Marines. . .the first military unit to occupy the Naval Air Station. As the seno/r military man present, Platoon Sergeant f> Spence could be considered the first commanding officer of the Station. However, this command was short-lived. A few weeks later, Marine Major J. C. Donehoo, Jr., arrived to become the first Marine Barracks Commanding Officer at Kaneohe. The Marine guard w s concerned primarily with the protection of vital contruction materials and the policing of the area which was to become the Station. They accomplished part of their mission using horses which were st'bled in Building #713 west of the runway. Meanwhile, the Navy Air Station's first commanding officer had received his new assignment. Commander Harold M. Martin, USN, was on his way. Commander Martin h-ad wanted this assignment because, for the past several years, he had been engaged in the preparatory planning of this, the Navy's new Pacific Gibraltar. 29. He had envisioned Hawaii-loa as an excellent vantage point from whereto control aircraft both in the waters of Kaneohe Bay and on the North-S^uth runway of the Station. Kansas Tower (as we know it today) can be credited to Commander Martin. When the commander arrived on Dec. 7, 1940, little more than mudflats, brush and blowing dust caused by earthmoving machinery met his eye. Commander Martin moved into his spacious quarter (a small wooden shack), sat at his desk (an apol^ crate) and immediately begqn plannine and executing his. own orders th.Tt would someday transform his embryo command into a sprawling, multi-million-dollar military installation. It was not yet a sprawling, million-dollar establishment, though, just two months after his arrival when sailors, marines an^ civilians took time out for their tasks to attend the commissioning ceremonies. On February 15, 1941, th^ facility became know officially as the Kaneohe Bay Naval Air Station. Platoon Sergeant Spence hoisted the colors over the new command. 30. Work continued at a raoid pace during the next few months, but nothing progressed faster — or was more closely- watched — than Commander Martin's favorite project, Baker Tower. Puu Hawaii-loa, once the home of an ancient chief, was soon to be nerve center of the Air Station. From high atop th<=> cone, aircraft controllers could see the entire western coast of Windward Oahu. Hawaii-loa, as you recall, is situated in the ili of Heleloa. Much could have been said of the prominent land- mark earlier, but as it was being prepared for wartime use, legends be^an to arise concerning Baker Tower. Baker Tower was the first of many names for the present Kansas Tower. From a geological standpoint, Puu Hawaii-loa is regarded as being older than Ulupau, Diamond Head, Koko Head or Punchbowl. Pali Kilo, Pyramid Rock, the Moku Manu Island, and Hawaii-loa ar^ beli)ved to have been craters or vents from which lava erupted and late from what is called the (a) Kaena Stand and hence, are considerably, ol^er than Ulupau Heo^. Various geologist-authors are inclined to (8) agree with his theory. (a) Formed from the sea. 31. A spring was once located near the top of Pauu Hawaii-loa. Old Hawaiians obtained fresh water from the spring. The hill took its name from this suring. Con- (5) struction in the early forties destroyed the spring. Hawaii-loa, according to a legend, was a chief who came with his followers to settle in the Hawaiian Islands However, Hawaii-loa was superseded by Papa, the earth mother, and Wakea, the sky father — gods who are said to have created the Hawaiian Islands. Legend has it that Hawaii-loa was the original member of the Hawaiian race, (6) and it is his namesake on which Kansas Tower now rests. Another spring existed on the Air Station prior to the construction days. Lu 0 Wai 0 Kanaloa is the name of an old brackish well now covered by Runway 22. It (5) was ten feet deep and contained four feet of water. Commander Martin once said, "We began to build shelters all around the Baker Tower area. It seems Baker Tower was the central gathering place on the (15) Air Station before other facilities were erected." Life at K-Bay was pretty carefree in the early forties. Perhaps the most restless of the workers were the civilians brought in from the Mainland. 32. The story of the war workers is not a happy one. The importees came with high expectations. They found chaotic conditions and complained about Hawaii. Many from the South brought concepts of white superiority. Many lived in barracks or quonset huts . Workers from the Mainland were housed in six main camps here on Oahu. Kaneohe Bay had one of these camps which was (a) (15) called Termite Village. By late 1941, the major protion of the StqpLon!s construction was nearing completion. During that year, the mission of Kaneohe was ex- panded to include the added responsibility for the admin- istration of Kaneohe Bay Naval Defense Sea Area and the Kaneohe Naval Air Space Reservation. The StavLon was given additional aircraft to support this mission. But for the military men at Kaneohe Bay, life was one seaplane patrol after another. Chief Ordnanceman John W. Finn, on watch December 7, 1941, stood waiting for the return of a PBY flight he had helped launch earlier that morning. (a) Now Rainbow Village 33. Just before 8 a. m., he, like many others here, heard the drone of approaching aircraft. Eyes strained to see the low-flying crafts that were hidden behind Kansas Tower and the North Beach sand dunes. But it wasn't his familiar PBY amphibians re- turning home. Japanese fighter planes and dive bombers swooped down on the unsuspecting Air Station, giving birth to what President Franklin D. Roosevelt called the "Day of Infamy." 34. THE ATTACK ON MOKAPU Lietenant Pusata Iida, a. 28-year-old fighter pilot in the Imperial Japanese Navy, toasted the Rising Sun Flag, climbed into the cockpit of his Zero, and roared (16) from the flight deck of carrier Soryu. The lieutenant, a short handsom man with a glowing personality and quick wit, was in command of the Third Air Control Group whose target for the morning's attack was Mokapu Peninsula .. .the Kaneohe Naval Air Station. As his flight sped low over the waves, little did Iida realize that his earlier toast, and this flight, would be his last. He had, in fact about one hour to live . His life had been fast-lived, however. He had survived three years of aerial combat in China, plus the rigors imposed on a popular and hard-drinking squadron leader. While miles out at sea, he spotted the landmark for which he was searching, the landmass of Ulupau (a) Crater and Kansas Tower. (a) Commander Martin1 s "Baker Tower", was known now as "K-Tower." According to Admiral J. P. Heath (Ret), it was only a code name used in communica- tions and radio contact with aircraft . (17) 35. He led his squadron of Zero aircraft down to the tops of the churning whitecaps and sped to the shore of North Beach for what he knew to be a surprise attack. The attack was not undetected; but w/arning of it (13) f went unheeded. A few miles north of the Air Station, at Kahuku Point, Army Privates Joseph Lockard and George Elliott of the 55th Signal Aircraft Warning Service had been manning a radar station. Radar was a new experiment for the military, and several such centers were in operation on Oahu at the time. There was one in operation high atop Ulupau (a) Crater. Suddenly the privates sprang forward, staring at the dancing impulse on their scope. Lockard thought at first that something was wrong with their instruments, but after checking it, he knew that the signal meant approch- ing aircraft. (a) On Dec. 7, Hawaii had 50 Army post sand 26 Naval reservations. On Mount Kaala, highest point of Oahu, was one of the several radar stations which wereestablished 12 remote areas. All of these required new access roads which presented major cons- truction problems. At Kaala, as well as the Kaena Point and Ulupau Head, the extreme inaccessibility of the sites required the installation of steel cableways to carry men and materials to the stations .( 13) 36. The two began plotting the nearing flight of airplanes. They began the known course at 136 miles out. When it closed to 132 miles, they called their Information Center. The officer on duty — Lieutenant Kermit Tyler — told them not to Wrry about it, that it was a flight of B-17 bombers from California expected to land at Hickam shortly after 8 a. m. It was, at the time, 7:15 a. m., and Kaneohe Bay had only slightly began to rise from slumber on a tropical Sunday morning. Lieutenant Iida nosed his Zero up over the dunes of North Beach, sighted in on the temporary structure silhouetted on top, and touched the button causing his machineguns to chatter a staccato rhythm, sounding for possibly the first time, Japanese war drums of World War II in the Pacific. Kaneohe Naval Air Station was under attack between 7:45 a. m. and 7:50 a- m. It is believed that Pearl Harbor- bound aircraft arrived over "Battleship Row" a few minutes later. 37. As Iida pulled up over the top of Puu Hawaii-loa crater, a lone Marine sentry fired at the departing Zeros with his Springfield 03 . Though not an effective anti-aircraft measure, it was a determined one. The sentry received a minor flesh wound -- probably from a ricochet -- and was (IS) firing in retaliation. The Japanese attackers continued across the peninsula with guns blazing. Fires began to burst out from buildings hit with incendiary ammunition. The planes then circled and began their deadly bomb runs. For ten minutes the twelve attackers swooped over the dazed Air Station. The defenders were unable to launch a single plane against them. The first targets were the big PBY patrol aircraft moored in the waters of Kancohe Bay. Following the attack, the damage inflicted by the invaders totaled 27 of 36 PBY' s destroyed and six others damaged; only three Catalinas out on patrol that morning escaped destruction. The Japanese had racked up near total success • 38. A stunned Kaneohe began to recover from the initial shock of the first onslaught. By the end of the attack, anti-aircraft measures were functioning and fire apparatus was attempting to control the blazing aircraft. As yet, no building had suffered a hit more than that of machine gun bullets . After some fifteen minutes, the attackers drew off to the north, all but one that is. Lt . Iida's Zero had suffered direct hits from angry Kaneohe guns. Bullets cut into his fuel tanks and gasoline began to spurt out in a long white spray. As his crippled plane dropped from the sky, Iida must have remembered the advice he had so often given to his men. He had repeated it earlier that morning: "The most important thing for a soldier who is a samurai is his determination. If, for instance, I should receive fatal damage to my fuel tank, I would aim my plane to effect the greatest destruction and, without thought of survival, (16) would throw myself into the target." True to his samurai code, Iida now signalled his group, to disband formation, pointing first to himself and then to the ground to make clear his intention. Then he plunged earthward with guns ablazing. 39. During a pilot's debriefing session later that morning aboard the Soryu, Lt . Iyoze Fujita related that, "The last I saw of Iida was when he began his crash dive, his plane hurtling straight downward into a flaming hangar on Kaneohe (16} Air Base." It was not a hangar that Iida hit. His crippled Zero slammed into the side of Kansas Tower, near where the Child (a) Care Center is situated today. For some 25 minutes a lull developed before the second attack commenced. During the lull, Kaneohe sprang to life. The Marine sentry came down from his Kansas Tower post, cursing his minor wound, and reported to the Station Dispensary for treatment. Among the casualties that continued to pour in, was Aviation Chief Ordnanceman John William Finn, carried on a stretcher. Later, Finn received the Medal of Honor for his part in defending against the first attack on Kaneohe Bay. Seeing the first planes rise over Kansas Toiler, Finn had jumped into action in a Lewis Machinegun position and began returning fire on the Japanese attackers. (a) Building # 579. 40. (19) His citation road: "For extraordinary heroism, distinguished service and devotion above and beyond the call of duty. During the first attack by Japanese airplanes on the Naval Air Station at Kancohc Bay, Honolulu, Territory of Hawaii, on December 7, 1941, he promptly secured and manned a nachinegun mounted on an instruction; s-t-and" in a. completely exposed section of a parking ramp, which was und'-r heavy enemy strafing fire." "Although painfully wounded many times, he continued to nan his gun and return the enemy fire vigorously and with telling effect throughout the enemy strafing and bombing attack and with complete disregard for his own personal safety." "It was only by specific orders that he was persuaded to leave his post to seek medical attention. Folloiving first aid treatment, although obviously suffering much pain and moving with great difficulty, he returned to the squadron (a) area and actively supervised the rearming of returning planes. His extraordinary heroism and conduct in this action are considered to be in accord with the highest traditions of (b) the Naval Service." (a) The throe that returned from an early morning patrol. (b) Finn, later promoted to Lieutenant, is now retired and lives in Pine Valley, Calif. 41. It is possible that he accounted for the hits on Lt . Iida's downed Zero. Sailors now swarned over the runway and around the burning amphibians. But there was little they could do for the crippled aircraft. They knew, though, that there was something that they could do for thenselves. During the first attack their white uniforms were quite conspicuous to to the strafing enemy. According to an eye witness, it was recalled that on the site where the Brigade Headquarters Company barracks now (a) stands, large mess hall pots were set to boiling over open fires during the lull between the first and second phases of the attack. Into these pots were tossed white uniforms, to be dyed a brownish-khaki color. Men stripped off I, waited while their whites were dyed, then put them back on to (20) return to the fight. The drone of heavy bombers continued ito sound over the Air Station, but they did not attack it. They were continuing on over the Koolau Mountains, bound for Hickam and Pearl Harbor. (a) Building #279 42. Then, nearly a half-hour later, another squadron of dive bombers appeared overhead. They began their attack by steep dives during which they strafed everything in their path. This time, they loosed 100-pound bombs on remaining aircraft and hangars at K-Bay. Hangar Number One received a direct hit and crumpled (a) under the force of the explosion. Four aircraft inside were destroyed. Most of the casualties on the Air Station occurred during this second attack. Bomb fragments accounted for a high toll of those wounded and dead. But the Kancohe defenders fought back. More machineguns were rigged on the damaged aircraft and on temporary mounts. They took a toll among the attackers. One plane was seen to have crashed into Kailua Bay; another went down in the i water off Pyramid Rock; still another crashed into the sea off North Beach. After about 15 minutes, the attackers wheeled about and disappeared over the North Beach sand dunes, seeking the safety of the carrier some 200 miles off Oahu. (a) Now Hangar 102. 43. Nov;, as the enemy departed, the Station set about licking its war wounds. The fires were brought under control. The dead and wounded were removed to the dispensary and the women and children on the Station "h-re evacuated to the Kailua School. As the battle was being waged at Kaneohe Bay, one PBY launched from here earlier that morning, possibly had the first visual contact with the enemy. Just off Pearl Harbor on routine patrol, the pilot of a PBY spotted an unidentified submarine. He radioed the nearby destroyer, USS Ward. The planed circled the area ' (U) (16) and watched the Ward sink the submarine minutes later. While it was subsequently established that the submarine was part of the reconnaisance group of the Japanese task force attacking Pearl Harbor, the initial report of the action sent high ranking Naval leaders here and at Pearl Harbor into consternation. Popular belief was that the Kaneohe PBY and the Ward had acted hastily and that the sub was American. The submarine incident was under discussion here at the Air Station an hour later when I»t. Iida arrived over North Beach in his Zero. 44. American casualties for the day incljded 19 dead, scores wounded and 27 aircraft destroyed. For the Jap- anese, one was known 'dead; possibly three others were down in the surrounding waters of the Air Station. Another casualty figure was recorded that day. At the Government Bird Farm, cages and pens were broken open by bomb blasts and strafing. About fifteen thousand pheasants and other game birds were casualties of the attack. The remaining birds^, about 9000, were quickly gathered and slaughtered and put on the food market to relieve an anticipated food shortage. The bird farm was abandoned later in the month after having functioned for nearly 20 years. December 8 was a day of gloom for the survivors of the previous day's attack. In the cool, precise phrasing of an official report of the Japanese attack were the words: "At about 1600 on Monday the dead were buried in a (21) grave in the sand dunes with aporopiate ceremonies..." It was a day of grief for Mrs. Grace Watson as she stood in the quickly prepared graveyard in the sand dunes of Heleloa. It had been centuries since Heleloa had re- ceived the bodies of warriors fallen in battle. Now, today, December &_, 1941^ twenty warriors were paid final respects . 45. Aviation Machinist Mate First Class Raphael .A. Watson had been on duty with Chief Finn the previous morning. He had fallen in a deadly hail of machinegun bullets from the strafing aircraft. At twenty minutes to eight, before the attack, Mrs. Watson had gone to pick up her husband who was to be off duty at 8 a. m. The world around her exploded .. .the attack had begun. She didn't see her husband that day. At about 9:30 a. m., all civilians were evacuated from the station. Today, as Navy Chaplains presided over the fallen Navynen, Mrs. Watson stood in disbelief with countless others, as theirs were laid to rest. In a single row facing the sea, now lay the bodies of: Ensigns R. S. Foss, L. Fox Jr., J. G. Smartt and R. W. Uhlmann, Third Class Petty Officers W. S. Brown, J. D. Buckley, M. A. Manning, L. G. Newman, R. K. Porterfieldj Second Class Petty Officers G. W. Ingram, C. Lawrence, C. W. Otterstetter and J. H Robinson; First Class Petty Officers S. D. Dorkck, C. M. Formoe, D. T. Griffen, L. D. Weaver, I. Lee, and Mrs. Watson's husband, Raphael One other grave was in the enclosed cemetery. There alone, thousands of miles from his Land of the Rising Sun, lay Imperial Navy Pilot Lieutenant Fusata Iida. 46. Kaneohe Bay Naval Air Station staggered., and wept, under its baptism of fire. But now, more than ever, work must proceed on the Navy's Gibraltar of the Pacific; to linger and mourn over the dead meant disaster. 47. K-BAY REBOUNDS December 7, 1941, was one of the most important dates in the history of the world, and Kaneohe Bay was the scene of its first importance. But few, if any, had the time or energy to speculate on its significance. There were more urgent matters to ponder. Kaneohe was practically defenseless against an entirely possible recurrence of that dayTs attack. The great question in the minds of those who stood their careful watches here at the Air Station and on other posts around Oahu, of those who tended the wounded, and of those who were hurriedly improvising defenses, was: "Will the Japanese return tomorrow? Would return mean invasion?" But the question was merely a background to increased activity. Fort Hase artillerymen prepared and strengthed their coastal defenses. The big guns of Penn and French Bat- teries were unlimbered and stripped for action. The Army set up numerous 155mm gun positions around the Station covering the approaches and beaches of both Fort Hase and the Air Station. The length of North Beach was a formidable line of 50 caliber machinegun emplacements, ready to repel (13) enemy landing craft. 43. Military personnel and civilians, both on the Station and in the neighborhood, were immediately called into action, each taking up his particular duties with all his or her energies. Skills, abilities and energies were turned to the immediate defense of Kaneohe Bay. Among others, the supple fingers of Hawaiian lei makers who. spent their peacetime days in the gracious art of producing the flower-lei — long a symbol of goodwill and love — turned abruptly to weaving the wartime necessity of (21) camouflage nets. Kaneohe Bay had been popularly dubbed the country club of the Pacific, not because of any lack of work accomplished, but because of its natural scenic beauty, its balmy climate, and its attempt to provide sufficient recreational facilities to compensate for its comparative isolation. Superficially, it might have appeared to be a playground but the work and training accomplished, the high morale, and the cooperation between the military and civilian populace was evidence that both the natural factors and the investments had been utilized for the best interest of the Navy. This confirmed in the story of its develop- ment. The spirit of Kaneohe is an ijTangible, but powerful tradition. 49. Perhaps it was intensified, and certainly was portrayed, by the men who fired guns still covered with packing grease in defense against the sneak attack which started the war. Their defiance and resourcefulness in their taste of battle exemplified the spirit of Kaneohe as described by Commander Martin following the December 7 attack: "After the seventh of December it was my duty to recommend individuals for commendation. I thought a great deal about it. No one shirked, no one avoided danger, everyone did the job he was supposed to do. It suddenly occurred to me that we were not individuals, buttle" NAS Kaneohe Bay and that the Station had conducted itself in a manner which was in keeping with the best (a) traditions of the Navy. I'd like to feel that this (21) Dtation will always be that way." As previously stated, Kaneohe wasp originally in- tended for a small permanent seaplane base, but early in 1941 plans were being made for the expansion of both its mission and facilities. (a) It was Commander Martin however, who recommended Aviation Chief Ordnanceman Finn for the Medal of Honor. 50. The first tactical unit assigned was Patrol Squadron 24 which suffered the brunt of the attack on December 7» In addition, Patrol Wing One came to Kaneohe about six weeks before the fateful day in December, It was in September, 1942, that Patrol Wing One was transferred to New Caledonia and Patrol Wing Two — later Fleet Air Wing Two — moved in8 In August, 1943, CASU-1A came and stayed a short while before being replaced by CASU-38 which remained (21) throughout the war. The attack on December 7 automatically placed the base on a forward area, wartime basis. By early 1942 the immediate danger had passed, and the Station became a base for Fleet Activity, serving both as an important part of the supply line and as host to visiting units. As the "Forward Area" moved westward, the Station increased Its activities in supply, assembly and re- pair of aircraft, training, and the provision of accom- modations for Fleet Activities quartered here. Before much training could be accomplished on the relatively short runway that existed then, the landing pattern had to have obstacles removed. 51. '(a) Moored to Cris Holmes1 Island in Kaneohe Bay, was the regal old schooner ship, "Seth Parker." The ship*s masts were a hazard to the slow, low-flying naval training planes that were arriving daily. The owners, who previously had installed red warning lights atop the masts, obligingly removed them from the drydocked pleasure palace. The Seth Parker slowly de- teriorated during the war years, with dry rot and sea- page taking a toll in the old sailing ship which had at one time plied the waters of the Pacific in inter-island trade. In the few preceeding years, it had been brought to its Kaneohe Bay moorage and turned into an elaborate club for guests of Cris Holmes1 Island. Quarters at first was a problem, for at the height of World War II, personnel stationed at Kaneohe Bay numbered more than 19,000 men — in addition to the thousands of Army personnel undergoing training and (15) defending Fort Hase. (a) Known more commonly now as Coconut Island. 52. Termite Village, which at first had housed the war workers needed to build Kaneohe Naval Air Station, now became home for officer personnel who lived in the huts four to a unit. Late in 1945, two of the larger houses were allotted to civilian girls working on Station. A few quarters were assigned to Senior civil services workers and their families. Military dependents were not permitted to join their men here during the war years. One set of quarters constructed here during the early war years was called the "Maui Barracks." Early in the hostilities, it was determined that nurses and WAVES would be sent to Kaneohe to take over administrative and medical duties. One set of barracks plans — plus materials on their way to Maui — were diverted to Kaneohe Bay to house the female military members. The site of the Maui Barracks was across the street from the Officers Club, At one time, it was nearly as large as the bachelor officer quarters which still stands today. Now, only a few small slabs of concrete — utilized as an officers club parking lot — is all that re- mains of the female "Maui" barracks. 53. The enlisted barracks at Kaneohe were different than those most military men lived in. At the time, there were eleven concrete and fire-proof buildings connected in an L-shape row by a long covered veranda or arcade. The barracks are still in use today. The men of Kaneohe Bay did not have all the com- forts of home, but they had some of the best quarters in the Navy. In the mid-war years, there were four messhalls in operations. Three were in the central camp area, while one was situated across the runway in the areas of the outlying squadrons. Today, one of the original four remains. One of the important functions of the Naval estab- lishment here was the operation of the Fleet Gunnery School which was established in Building #455^ today known as the Old Mokapu School. Thousands of Navy gunners went through the courses offered at this, the largest naval gunfire school in the Pacific. For their outside practice, the gunners journeyed to an area near the present main gate. Off to the side, near Kailua Bay, was a circular small-gauge railway which conveyed targets for the fledging machinegunners. 54. Also in the sane area, slow-moving Navy planes carried target banners back and forth over the beach for the gunners to practice their new trade real- istically. In other training facilities, the Navy excelled. At one school they had in operation nore than 50 mobile "Link" trainers to aid new pilots in the latest flying techniques. Two complete mock-up aircraft frames — one each of the PBY and PBM — were electronically wired to test crews for combat reaction time in multiple sit- uations. There was also a school for celestial navigation, sonar, aircraft recognition and turret operation. But, the IFGHA (instrument Flying Center, USN, Hawaiian Area) remained the main institution for higher learning. In addition to the 50 link trainers and two patrol bomber mockups, there were 44 instruct- ors and more than 130 other enlisted personnel assigned to the school. Theirs was the mission of training and familiarizing Navy and Marines aviators from Hawaii, Maui and Oahu in flight operations prior to their being sent to a forward combat area. 55. Communications was : another of the problems that faced Commander Martin upon his arrival. His contact with the "outside world" — mainly the Naval Headquart- ers at Pearl Harbor — was for more than a year after his arrival, a hand-cranked wall-hung monstrosity that defied it's user and rebelled at every crank of the handle. It was not uncommon for a call to Honolulu to require more than 30 minutes to complete. The first dial-type telephones were installed in Dec- ember, 1942. By war's end, there were 11S1 instru- ments in the command. Record-wise, on "VJ" Day, the Station switchboard heralded the news — both in- coming and outgoing — with 27,650 calls. On the "first" VJ Day — August 14, 1945 one such call was for Francis Cardinal Spellman, who was visiting Kaneohe Navy Air Station. The Cardinal immediately departed for the Navy's Head- quarters at Pearl Harbor to celebrate a Mass in honor of those fallen in battle during the past four years. So it was — three years, eight months and seven days after it all began — Kaneohe, like the rest of the world, could relax after engaging in the greatest struggle man had ever know. 56. Peace officially came September 2, 1945* when the surrender was signed on the decks of the USS Missouri in Toyko Bay, 57. THE DEMOBILIZATION Following the signing of the Japanese surrender in September, the remainder of 1945 and on through 1946 could be called the "facelifting" era for Kaneohe Naval Air Station. Just three months after the cease fire, civil service workers here had removed thousands of tons of sandbags from important Station facilities. The bomb shelters which had been constructed throughout the living areas came down and In their place the vegatation returned. Most of the persons here did not know the size (a) or shape of the Station Telephone Exchange Building. For days laborers removed tons of sands from atop and around the structure, revealing the lines of the building as they are today. Blackouts and dimouts were now a thing of the past and Kaneohe began living a normal life again. During war years the average day was all work and no play. Now the military men and civilian workers needed recreational facilities. (a) Building #213 58. Klipper Beach became the "Waikiki" of the Wind- ward side. There were bathhouses, a cafeteria, numerous lifeguard stands and, best of all, a huge dance pavillion built along the sandy strip. The last week of September, a USO show came to Kaneohe Bay to aid in the victory celebrations that were in progress throughout military estab- lishments in Hawaii. Kaneohe was host to Bob Hope, Francis Langford and Betty Hutton. The Kaneohe "Klipper" newspaper reported the "Bob Hope laid many brilliant eggs (22) in the red dust of Kaneohe Bay." During the following year, outdoor living really came of age and the Klipper Beach was equipped with the latest innovation, the barbeque pit. Dozens were constructed for the beach parties that were in progress almost continually. Thousands of military of all services passed through the Kaneohe Naval Air Station bound for the Mainland for discharge and return to civilian life. 59. But for those who remained here, those not yet ready for discharge, or those who just recently arrived^ Kaneohe was home, and therefore, their homes — and families — came to Hawaii. Mrs. John H. Whitener, wife of Lieutenant Whitener, the Station Commissary Officer, was the first dependent to arrive at Kaneohe Bay and set (23) up housekeeping on January 12, 1946. Mrs. Whitener was followed by hundreds of wives and children wh° rushed to Kaneohe to join their husbands. Many wives had not seen their men in years . Termite Village was rapidly losing its civ- ilian workers and female military occupants. Quick renovations on the units began, and the arriving families soon filled the housing development with the laughs and cries of family life. They had — after years of war and separation — found their pot (a) of gold at the end of the rainbow. But no sooner had many of the newcomers arrived when, on April 1, they were routed from their homes by the order, "Evacuatei" (a) The name Rainbow Village has replaced the wartime term of Termite Village. 60. Many families fled their hemes in the early morning darkness not knowing the meaning of the shouting word "Tidal Wave", But around 7 a. m. they stared in awe as waves nearly 25 feet high swept over the peninsula, nearly covered the runway and Fort Hase area, then rapidly receded back to the sea. Kaneohe damage was comparatively light. Approxi- mately 100 feet of road near North Beach was washed out. Debris, included many fish, covered the lower end of the runway. Six warehouses stored with re- cently arrived home furnishings were flooded, A radio relay building near Klipper Beach was de- molished. The man on duty, Coast Guardman Roy Fine, RM2c, was swept from the building and tumbled in the building wave. He clung to swirling wreckage and, when the water receded, he waded to Mokapu Boulevard and flagged a car down to take him to the dispensary were he was treated only for shock. Marine personnel were hurriedly posted in the magazine area, on theb.eaches, and near the damaged buildings shortly after the gigantic wave struck. 61. The northeast portion of Fort Hase and the sur- rounding area were flooded, but the damage was slight. The light wooden structures formerly used as housing for soldiers had been abandoned when the 9&th Division departed for Japan a few months previous. A second wave expected to hit at approximately 1 p.m., did not materialize. The civilian workers aboard the Station were given time off that clay to gather fish from the small pools on the runway. During the same month, April, the aircraft control tower atop Kansas Tower ceased operations and control of the airfield was carried out in the newly completed (25) tower above Hangar 105. One of the last traces of wartime to disappear from the Station scene was the temporary cemetery where the Pearl Harbor Day dead were buried. In June, the 19 Americans were removed and sent to the Mainland for final internment at the request of their survivors. Now Lt. Iida was completely alone, buried under the sand and soil of North Beach, almost below the spot where his airplane crossed over the beach as the first invader nearly five years earlier. It was not until 194& that Lieutenant Iida was (17) returned home at the request of Japanese authorities. 62, In August, the WAVES departed Kaneohe for duty at Pearl Harbor and future discharge. In their place came another flood of dependents. Housing for the first time became critical, but the situation was alleviated by the arrival of a huge tug-pulled barge arriving in Kaneohe Bay with new quonset huts on August 30, 1946. For the first time it became evident that Kaneohe Bay would need a school. The one elementary school in Kailua would not be able to meet the demands of the growing military community. The Gunnery School Building — vacant for nearly a year now — became the institute for higher learning for grammar school pupils when the doors swung open September 4> 1946, for the first elementary classes. At the time it was call ed the Kailua Annex. The Enlisted Club became a reality in November, 1947* and has since served off-duty military men at Kaneohe. Previous to the spacious club's debut, en- listed men were left to shift for themselves for enter- tainment • However, entertainment was widespread. The earlier mentioned Klipper Beach proved to be the most popular attraction for the leisure hours of all personnel. Organized spirts played a big part in the high morale of the Station. 63. Also in 1947 a club was organized for the civilian workers here at Kaneohe, They moved into the now- vacant WAVES Recreation Club building on Crescent Circle. The lower floor was their place for re- (a) laxation. Then in February 1949> sports really cane into their own with the opening of the finest golf course in the Islands. Amdiral J. P. Heath had pushed for the completion of the golf course for many years. (17) Now it was a realty... all nine holes of it. But its use was short-lived. Three months later,, a ceremonywas conducted in front of the administration building that halted all activities here. The K-Bay Naval Air Station was de-commissioned. Taps sounded as the flag was slowly lowered. The (b) two saluting batteries barked, and then the Station went into hibernation. (a) Presently the transient and bachelor staff quarters, Building #336. (b) The two ornamental guns in front of the Station Administration Building were brought here by the first commanding officer, Commander ' Harold M. Martin They are Hotchkiss 75mm, model 1894, taken from the USS Albany, a cruiser of Spanish-American War vintage They were salvaged when the ship was dismantled at Pearl Harbor Navy Yard. Previously, they were located just in front of the building, but have since been moved to the side of the flag pole. (26) 64. THE COAST GUARD AT KANE 0 HE The IT. S. Coast Guard, although not active hero during the Second World War, played a part in the development and history of the Station. A unit arrived here in October, 1945, the month following the signing of the surrender. Coast Guard Lieutenant G. W. Girdlcr, was the commanding officer of a detachment of five officers and IS enlisted men. The unit had the responsibility of search and rescue for the Windward side of Oahu. In addition, they maintained a fleet of aircraft consisting of two PBY-4 amphibians and one JRP, The unit regularly made trans -Pacific runs to the Phillipines, China, Japan and other forward area Coast Guard stations. The local detachment was part of the 14th Coast Guard District quartered in Honolulu. The unit remained here as the Station search and rescue unit until its deactivation when the Station shut down (27) in 1949. 65. KANEOHE AIR STATION III INACTIVE STATUS Following its do- commissioning in June, tho Station was placed In a maintenance status with just enough personnel remaining to replace broken windows and keep the grass trimmed, All property, except buildings, was transferred to the still thriving Naval Air Station at Barber's Point. Mosshall utensils, machine shop equipment and household furniture was hauled away from Kane oho by the truekload. According to one oldtimcr who remembered the Station In tho deactivated period, there is some question as to how much of tho equipment found its way all tho way across the island to tho Leeward Air Station. There was, at tho time, an uncxplainablc amount of Items flooding the local surplus market. Then again, the government was releasing surplus equipment faster than the local market could absorb it. For tho next two and one-half years, vegetation crawled unhindered around the buildings and grounds on tho now- forgotten Air Station. 66, After do-commissioning the Station, the Navy had put the Mokapu land up for lease, but therofne takers. A Staff Sergeant Moore, of the Marine Barracks at Barber »s Point, was the "commanding officer" of the sleeping Air Station. He was quartered in the first house on Crescent (a) (28) Circle. Admittance to the Air Station was gained by placing a call to the Sergeant and waiting for him to come to the (b) outer gate to unlock it. A barricade thcro kept out unwanted visitors to the still-government property. With the Station stripped of all valuables, onboard personnel strength by Juno 30, 1950, was limited to a small security detail. The Station was then left entirely to the mercy of the elements and f ast-crcoping vegetation. (a) Building #562. (b) The site of the present main gate on Mokapu Blvd. 67. Then in 1951, the Marine Corps decided that the idle airfield at Mokapu would make an ideal training site for a combined air-ground team. The Station was assigned to the Marino Corps and soon the first elements of maintenance personnel arrived to clear the area. It was decided that one of the first considerations would bo the construction of a communications building for trans- Pacific messages. However, Marine bulldozers accidentally bumped the (a) corner of the present communications center. V/orking parties struggled for nearly three weeks clearing the vinos and jungle growth which, had enveloped the once-bustling Navy installation. VJbrkod progressed rapidly at K-Bay until, on January 15, 1952, Colonel Frank G. Dailcy, the first Marine Corps Air Station commanding officer, participated in the commissioning ceremonies of the new Kancohe Marine Corps Air Station^ The Marine Corps has made its mark on the sacred land of Mokapu. (a) Building #505 68. THE MARINES ARRIVE AT MOKAPU Following commissioning, Kaneohe Bay Marine Corps Air Station was "open for business. V Early in 1952, Marine Aircraft Group 13 began moving into its new Hawaiian quarters. Marine Fighter Squadrons 235 and 451, both flying the F^U "Corsairs,'! were the first tactical units to arrive. Maintenance and base squadrons and Marine Ground Control Intercept Squadron 2 rounded out the aircraft group • The first "Windward Marine" newspaper hit the streets of the Air Station on March 28, 1952, re- porting that the Station Sergeant Major, SgtMaj. Irwin F. Wladvogel and Disbursing Sergeant Joseph Remis, each received a case of their favorite beer for winning the "name-the-paper" contest. According to the same issue, other facilities were rapidly becoming operational on the Station. (a) The Station Brig had opened the previous week with three registered "guests." (a) Building #211 69. Work was still progressing on the recently dis- covered communications building according to a Wind- ward Marine, article . In May, while new equipment was still being installed, Communicators were outside busily working on the beautif ication of the grounds (29) of their Kansas Tower home. Preparations were rapidly being completed in the newly designed regimental area. Soon "ground" Marines would be arriving to set up housekeeping and begin training at Kaneohe. Then on schedule, the First Provisional Marine Air-Ground Task Force came to Kaneohe in February, 1953 Units from the Third Marine Division, based at Camp Pendleton, Calif., arrived for six months1 training and became the first outfit to be trained under the joint air-ground training program. This particular unit, the Third Marine Regiment, was sent to Japan when the Third Division was ordered overseas in August, 1953. On April IS, 1953, President of the United States Harry S, Truman was honored guest at the parade and review and commissioning ceremonies af the First Provisional Marine Air-Ground Task Force. Task Force Commander was Brigadier General James P. Riseley. 70. Dependents here at the time applauded the inauguration of the Station's new commissary store which opened for business on March 10, 1953. On October 30, 1953, the Windward Marine went "big time," by appearing in newsprint as a regular commercially published weekly. Not since the days of World War II had Kaneohe been the home of female "warriors," but, on November 6, 1953, First Lieutenant Phylis J. Young, commanding officer of the newly-activated Women Marine Detachment, arrived with the first WMs to have duty here. They were quartered in Barracks #279 — the only barracks (b) at Kaneohe without urinals. When the Fourth Marine Regiment arrived from Japan on February 4, 1955, the Station assumed its fulltime role of "providing facilities to support regular operations of Fleet Marine Force aircraft in direct support of a regimental combat team." (a) In Building #401 (b) Urinals were not installed in Building #279 until 1957. 71. Elements comprising the First Marine Brigade were Marine Aircraft Group 13; HeadquartersCompany , First Marine Brigade; The Fourth Marine Regiment (Reinforced); and Com^/pW C (Reinforced), Seventh Engineer Battalion. Nearly 2000 spectators were on hand May 1, 1956, to observe the rebirth of the First Marine Brigade at Kaneohe. In a historic ceremony which took place on the regimental parade field, the color of the First Provisional Marine Air-Ground Task Force was retired. To fulfill its mission, the Marine Corps Air Station required all of Mokapu Peninsula. Fort Hase was now a thing of the past. The Main Gate was moved from its Harris Street location out to the present site on Mokapu WiifM by Nuupia Fishpond. The Peninsula was, for the first time in history, under one command. Ancient Hawaiians had divided the land between chiefs, World War II leaders had portioned the Peninsula out to both Army and Navy users. Marine Fighter Squadron 232, the "Red Devils," received their new FJ3 "Fury" jets on November 12, 1954, and retired their outmoded F9F "Panthers." On April 3> 1955> Marine Helicopter Squadron 161, Marine. -Composite Squadron 1 and Marine Attack Squadron 212 reported aboard for duty with the aircraft group. 72. Work now was rushed on the rebuilding of the runway and taxi areas. The fast-landing jets re- quired more roll-out length than did their slow World War II predecessors. On March 53 1956, the airfield runway construction work began. The Women Marine tenure here was short. On August 14> 1956, the detachment packed up and left for duties at Camp H. M. Smith, Headquarters of Fleet Marine Force, Pacific. An aid to the fast-landing jets was installed on the runways on January 18, 1957> when the new mirror landing system was put into operation. The year 1957 might be called the expansion year for the Corps' newest Air Station. Among the projects completed then were: the opening of a 10-lane bowling alley in Building 1090 and the enlargement of the Enlisted Club with the addition of a new cafeteria. Best of the news in the construction field, however, was the announcement that plans for nearly 1000 Cape- hart homes had been approved. Work would begin in 195^. 73. An air of "Hollywood" touched Kaneohe Bay in Sept- ember when Mitze Gaynor and the cast for the motion picture "South Pacific" arrived and began filming their soon-to-be-hit. Marines of the Brigade's First Amphibious Tractor Company were given roles in the color musical. On November 4, the First Marine Brigade paraded on the newly dedicated Piatt Field. It was named in honor of a former Fourth Marine Regiment Commander, Colonel Wesly McCoy Piatt. The Station's Kaneohe Klipper Golf Course — begun in 1949 — was doubled in size in June, 1958, with the completion of the back nine holes. Then in September, 1958, the roar of the mighty Marine Aircraft Group 13 jets could be heard no more in the skies above the Station. The group deployed to Atsugi, Japan, and remained there on duty 'until March k, 1959. With completion of new Capehart Housing near, Station officials determined that a new elementary school was needed for the vast community of children. The youngsters had outgrown andover taxed the facilities of the Old Mokapu School which had stood since the days of World War II. On July 2^ 1959,, a contract was let for the construction of the most modern school in the islands . 74. With the routine of the Air Station firmly established, other units began eyeing Kaneohe as a home. The Navy's Pacific Missile Range Facility, Hawaiian Area, became a tenant of the Marine Corps Air Station in September, 195#. The unit is the primary "down range" site for the nation's largest missile range* It is headquarters for eight other Hawaiian and mid-Pacific instrumentation island sites — Barking Sands and Kokee, Kauai; South Point, Hawaii; Christmas Island j Tern Island; Canton Island; Wake Island; Midway Island; and Japtan Island of Eniwetok Atoll. Another "tenant," the First Composite Radio Company, Fleet Marine Force, Pacific, was activated in September, 1958, but it was not until early 1959 that they departed their Camp H. M. Smith Headquarters and arrived at Kaneohe Bay* -In July 1964, the Company became the First Radio Battalion. Today, the major units of the versatile, hard- hitting First Marine Brigade include the Fourth Marine Regiment, Marine Aircraft Group 13, the Third Battalion, Twelfth Marine Regiment, serving as the Brigade's art- illery arm, and a Service Battalion composed of a number of separate companies. 75. Today's Brigade utilizes flashing jet aircraft and mighty amphibious personnel carriers to carry out their mission in contrast to the ancient Hawaiians who once walked the Sacred Land of Mokapu with their spears and stone axes, and plied the surrounding waters in their frail outrigger canoes . The indomitable fighting spirit of today's Marine is a fitting modern counterpart to that of the ancient Hawaiian warrior of Mokapu. The words of the Air Station's first commanding officer, Commander Harold M. Martin are today, as they were on December 7 } 1941, holding true: "....we are not individuals, but the Air Station Kaneohe Bay, the Station, not individuals, ...continues to conduct itself in a manner which is in keeping with the best traditions These traditions are the legends, the myths, the martyrs ... .the Marines of Mokapu. -pau- PRE-fFVAL AIR STATION COMMANDER Platoon Sergeant George Spence — Nov. 1940 Marine Detachment NAVAL COMMANDERS Cdr. Harold M. Martin — 29Nov40 - 10Jul42 LtCdr. Robert C. Warrack — 10Jul42 - 29Jul42 Capt. Wallace M. Dillion — 29Jul42 - 18May43 Capt. Nolan M. Kindell — 18May43 - 26Jan45 Cdr. Walter E. Premo, Jr. — 26Jan45 - 28Jan45 Capt. Marion E. Crist — 28Jan45 - 28Jun46 . Capt. John P. Heath — 28Jun46 - deactivated KANEOHE MARINE CORPS STATION COMMANDERS Col. Frank G. Dailey — 15Jan52 - 13Aug54 Col. Charles H. Hayes — 13Aug54 - 10ct55 Col. William D. Steiner — 10ct55 - 6Sep56 LtCol. Homer G. Hutchison, Jr. — 6Sep56 — 30ct56 Col. Jack R. Cram — 30ct56 - 20Aug58 Col. Marion M. Magruder — 20Aug58 - 4Aug60 Col. William R. Campbell — 4^ug60 - 3Jun63 Col. Paul T. Johnston — 43un63 - BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. HawaiiPono, a Social History, 1961, L. H. Fuchs 2. Geology of the Hawaiian Islands, Sterns, 1946 3. Hawaii, A Pageant of the Soil, Hobbs 4. The Lonely Warrior, K. D. Mellen 5. Bulletin of Geological Society of America — 1939 6. Mid-Pacific, Vol. XIV, Dec. 1917 7. Land Court Application 667 8. Land Court Grant 1015 9. Interview with Dr. George F. Straub, former land holder of Mokapu Peninsula. Dr. Straub founded the Straub Clinic in Honolulu. 10* Files and manuscripts of Bishop Museum, Honolulu. 11. Archaeology of Oahu, J. G. McAllister 12. Bishop Museum Ethnology Department Files 13. Hawaii's War Years 1941-1945, Gwenfread Allen 14. Honolulu Star Bulletin, 310ctl929 1$. Kaneohe Klipper, l6Febl946 16. "Tora, 'Tora, Tora," The Bntold Story of Pearl Harbor, Part II, G. W. Prange 17. Interview with Admiral J. P. Heath, USN, (Ret), former Commanding Officer of the Air Station, Jun46 - Jun49. 18. "K-Tower^World Warll" "First" — Windward Marine, lDecl96l, Grace Brophy 19. Medal of Honor Citation for Aviation Chief Ordnance* man John William Finn, Jr., USN 20. Windward Marine, 6Decl957 21. U, S. Naval Air Station, Kaneohe Bay, Oahu, T. H. Brochure of 15Febl946 22. The Kaneohe Klipper, 29Sepl945 23. The Kaneohe Klipper, 15Janl946 24. The Kaneohe Klipper, 6Aprl946 25. The Kaneohe Klipper, l6Marl946 26. The Kaneohe Klipper, 27Aprl946 27. The Kaneohe Klipper, 25Aprl947 2g. Mr. Stanley Payne, Civil Service Commission, who was at Kaneohe Bay at the time of the deactivation His first work at the Station began in 1940. 29. Windward Marine, 23Mayl952 MARINE CORPS HISTORICAL LIBRARY > VG94.5 .K3 S74 1965